“春節(jié)前家家戶戶殺年豬，為了慶祝豐收，親朋好友要聚在一起，唱跳阿尺木刮。其中，歌詞要涉及一年365天。”8月29日中午，在迪慶藏族自治州維西傈僳族自治縣葉枝鎮(zhèn)同樂村，50歲的國家級非物質文化遺產傳承人李碧青帶領村民們熱情奔放地表演阿尺木刮，他們驕傲地介紹，“自然萬物都可以進入到阿尺木刮的歌詞里?！?/p>

“Families here slaughter pigs before the Chinese New Year to celebrate harvest. It is also a time of reunion for relatives and friends, and they’ll sing and dance Achimugua then. The lyrics of the show should involve moments in the whole year,” said Li Biqing on Aug. 29.

Along with the fellow villagers, Li Biqing, aged 50, was passionately performing Achimugua in Tongle Village of Yezhi Township, northwest Yunnan’s Weixi Lisu Autonomous County. She said proudly: “Everything can be included in lyrics of Achimugua.”

同樂，是孕育了阿尺木刮的千年古寨。站在村子對面的公路上，遙望這幅滿是鄉(xiāng)愁的畫卷：藍天白云下，最耀眼的是濃得化不開的綠色，一棵棵大樹生機勃發(fā)；鑲嵌其中的一棟棟褐色的傈僳族木楞房，與大樹相依相偎；那些木頭和石片屋頂，因為日復一日的火塘煙熏、炊煙繚繞，其色澤和質感極具歷史滄桑之美；而老屋、新綠，相映生輝。

Tongle, a village with a millennium-long history, is the birth place of Achimugua. With blue sky, white cloud and green trees, it is also a livable place favored by people from outside. The brown Muleng houses, where locals live in, dotted the village.

The woods and roof tiles, which are smoked day after day by fire pits, remind us the vicissitudes in history. Looked at from afar, the village is like a harmonious picture of spring verdancy and featured old dwellings.

從看見到走進，花了20分鐘左右的時間，我們來到同樂。進村的道路上，路燈裝飾成傈僳族喜歡的煙斗形狀，有點像外國童話故事里魔法師的帽子，別出心裁。知道我們來做客，李碧青帶著同伴們到村口迎接。初秋午后的陽光下，清風和著阿尺木刮的歌聲、舞步傳遞出快樂的心情。

It took us 20 minutes to get to the village. We noticed that the street lamps were decorated by tobacco pipe-shaped patterns favored by Lisu people. The decorations also look like the hats of magicians in fairy tales.

Noting we were here to visit, Li Biqing welcomed us at the entrance of the village together with her fellows. Joyful singing and dancing of Achimugua came to our ears, and the feeling of happiness immediately hit us.

同樂村里，母雞帶著小雞穿梭在樹木花草和傈僳族木楞房之間，小黑狗在阿尺木刮傳統(tǒng)文化展示館前的鄉(xiāng)村籃球場上曬太陽，小花貓在木楞房里的火塘邊躺著為主人守家，大家各得其樂。

In the village, we saw harmonious scenes: chickens frolicking between Wuleng houses of Lisu people; a yellow dog lying in a basketball court and basking in sunshine; and a kitty was guarding the house beside the fire pit.

“‘阿尺木刮’是傈僳語的音譯，翻譯成漢語就是‘山羊的歌舞’或‘學山羊叫的歌調’?！绷糁L發(fā)的李碧青說話像唱歌一樣飽含激情。他約上兩位同伴一起跟我們講阿尺木刮的故事，一位是傈僳族紡織非遺傳承人余信芝，一位是麥稈編織非遺傳承人余秀芝。她們的作品是阿尺木刮服飾的重要組成部分。2006年，阿尺木刮入選首批國家級非物質文化遺產代表性項目名錄，這是全村人都高興的大事情。

“Achimugua is a transliteration from the Lisu language, meaning the singing and dancing of goats or the tune of goat bleating,” Li Biqing said, in a passionate voice.

Accompanied by Yu Xinzhi and Yu Xiuzhi, inheritors of cultural heritages of the Lisu spinning and straw weaving, Li told us something about Achimugua. The art form was listed as a natioanl cultural heritage in 2006, which cheered up the villagers a lot.

“我是14歲開始當羊倌，也是從那個時候開始學阿尺木刮。爬山、放羊……樣樣都能用歌聲來表達，太有意思了?！崩畋糖嗾f得眉飛色舞。他先后拜過4位師傅學藝，學了10多年，學會了包括阿尺木刮在內的傈僳族歌舞的80%。然而，現(xiàn)在他的師傅已有3位不在世了。為了傳承這門技藝，李碧青邊學邊總結邊教徒弟，至今已教出四、五百名徒弟，其中有二、三十人可以擔任領舞。

Li Biqing began to learn Achimugua at 14, when she was a shepherd. Then she found out it interesting to involve many aspects of life in the art form.

During the ensuing decade, Li asked 4 seniors to be her teacher and by now she has mastered 80% of Lisu songs including Achimugua.

Three of her teachers have passed away and to pass down Achimugua better, Li bagan to teach the art to others. Among her some 500 students, around 30 can lead the dance.

跳阿尺木刮時的衣服是特制的傈僳族盛裝，他們從種棉花開始到縫制成衣服都是自己動手，而種棉花那天是要唱跳阿尺木刮的，唱出播種的心情，同時，祈求風調雨順、感恩自然饋贈?！懊藁ㄊ斋@后，紡成線、織成布、裁成衣，全部手工完成，其中一條女裝的裙子要做半年時間?！庇嘈胖フf一針一線都有講究，做出成品的時候心情非常好。

Praising works of Yu Xinzhi and Yu Xiuzhi are important for Achimugua costumes, Li Biqing told us people usually dress up when performing the show and they make the costume all by hand, from cotton growing to costume weaving.

It is also customary to perform Achimugua on the day of cotton growing. Via lyrics, villagers express the joy in sowing, pray for harvest and show gratitude to Mother Nature.

Li said that it generally takes half a year to complete a skirt. Every stitch should be careful and one can sense achievement the moment the shirk is done.

坐在她身旁的余秀芝曾經(jīng)是全國人大代表，18歲就評上了非遺傳承人，但她的言語不多，手里攥著一頂小姑娘戴的尖尖帽，滿臉幸福的微笑?！袄夏棠?、老爺爺?shù)睦圩迨⒀b要戴豬頭帽。帽子上的配飾有玉牌、金牌、銀牌、銅牌和麥桿編織牌共5種差別，以前，玉牌是山寨之王的象征，而麥稈編織牌就是普通人的服飾?！庇嘈阒ブv起服飾頭頭是道。健談的李碧青接著說，綁腿有3種，棉花做的，在日常生活中用；竹子做的，在挖地等勞作時用；獸皮做的，狩獵時用。說著說著，李碧青又唱了起來，他爽朗地笑了：“真的是樣樣都能用歌聲來表達，而且，只有歌聲能夠代表心聲。”

Yu Xiuzhi was entitled inheritor of intangible cultural heritage at the age 18. “The elders should wear special hats in their costumes,” said Yu, with a pointy hat in hand. The hat is decorated by pieces of jade, gold, silver, bronze and straw. Previously, the jade piece represents the head of the village and the straw plate is the identity of the ordinary.”

Li Biqing added that there are three kinds of leg wrappings in the costume: the cotton wrapping for daily use; the bamboo-made leg wrapping for farm works; and wrappings in hides for hunting. Li began to sing at the moment, showing almost everything can be included in a song and the singing is the only way to express words in heart.

“現(xiàn)在，同樂村137戶、592人，最大的收入來源是種植藥材，另外，每年接待慕名而來的游客有幾萬人，大家的日子越過越好?！彼麄冞呎f邊邀請我們到附近的余信芝家看看傈僳族紡織工具。順著山勢拾級而下，路邊的桃樹掛滿鮮果，“嘗一個！”快人快語的李碧青已經(jīng)摘下桃子遞過來?！安皇翘貏e甜，但是，桃味濃?！蔽覀儗嵲拰嵳f。

Now, there are 592 villagers belonging to 137 families live in the village and herb-planting is their main source of income. Thanks to the favorable natural environment, tens of thousands tourists come to visit every year and life is getting better and better. We walked through a path with fruits hanging on either side as villagers invited us to house of Yu Xinzhi to take a look at the spinning tools of Lisu people.

幾分鐘后，來到余信芝家，木楞房的外墻上居然掛著一個傳統(tǒng)民居保護牌，簡直不敢相信自己的眼睛：居然有300年歷史。滿面紅光的余信芝說，我們每家都有3個住處呢！一個是你們現(xiàn)在看到的老宅，一個是藥材基地旁的簡易房，一個是山腳下、瀾滄江邊冬天居住的避寒屋。余信芝從屋里拿出織好的線團和幾個小工具給我們看，每一樣工具都是老物件，好像博物館珍藏的藝術品。然而，這些老物件在天天勞動的帶繭子的手中，依然能紡出白花花的棉線、織出粗布衣服，它們就是活著的非遺、就是生活的藝術品。

We arrived at Yu Xinzhi’s soon. To our surprise, we found out the house she lives in was a 300-year dwelling. Yu, in a ruddy face, told us that each family here have three places to live, the old house, a makeshift house near medicinal materials base, and one at the foot of the mountain and beside Lancang River. The last place is useful during winter.

Yu then showed us several balls of string and some tools which appear like pieces of artwork preserved in museums. Old as they are, these tools can still be used by experienced workers, and they are helpful in weaving and spinning. They are living heritages and fossils of art works.

“來嘗嘗蜂蜜?！崩畋糖嗖恢獜哪睦锬脕硪淮笸霂е湎灥拿?，我們用筷子挑了一小塊嚼著吃，非常香甜，有一股濃濃的百花香。那一刻，忽然覺得，阿尺木刮就是像李碧青、余信芝、余秀芝這樣的傳承人從同樂村的自然山水和傈僳族的日常生活中采集、釀造的藝術之蜜，其中獨有的魅力是人與自然和諧之美，正如這個千年古寨的名字：同樂。

“Help yourself!” said Li Biqing, serving a bowl of honey with bee wax. It was a sweet taste with the fragrance of various flowers. We suddenly realized something similar: Bees collect nectar to make honey, the gift from nature, and inheritors like Li Biqing, Yu Xinzhi and Yu Xiuzhi draw inspirations from the natural landscapes to enrich Achimugua, the gift of arts.

The unique charm of Achimugua is the beauty of harmony between man and nature. Just like the name of the village—Tongle, it means “common joy” in Chinese language.

云南日報全媒體記者：儲東華熊燕張若谷 李文君

編譯：李恒強