“從小家里就很不讓我做家務(wù)了，作為家里‘五朵金花’的第一朵，一直以來全家對(duì)我的要求只有一個(gè)：做針線、縫藏裝，而這也是我最愛做的事。”

“Though I am the eldest among five daughters at home, my parents rarely ask me to do housework. They instead prefer me to sew Tibetan costumes and that is their only requirement for me,” Zhuoma said.

這是省級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)項(xiàng)目藏族服裝縫制工藝代表性傳承人卓瑪?shù)男睦镌?。在云南省迪慶藏族自治州德欽縣奔子欄鎮(zhèn)，當(dāng)我們一早走進(jìn)卓瑪家的小院，她已經(jīng)精心梳洗，身上的紫色輕便藏裝一塵不染，表面游走的金絲線蜿蜒成細(xì)密美麗的花紋，格外精致。

卓瑪正要開始一天的忙碌。從15歲第一次拿起針線，她學(xué)了10年，才做出了人生中第一套藏裝。今天，55歲的卓瑪擁有自己的藏族服裝工廠，產(chǎn)品暢銷當(dāng)?shù)啬酥林苓叺貐^(qū)，但坐在縫紉機(jī)前，看著心中的樣式在手里漸漸成型，她依然能夠感到和當(dāng)初一樣的喜悅及成就感。

When we reached Zhuoma’s courtyard, which lies in Benzilan Township, Deqin County, Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan Province, Zhuoma had waited us, in a purple cloth. It was casual, yet interspersed by golden silk, exquisitely.

Zhuoma told us that she spent ten years making the first Tibetan costume after she picked up a needle at 15. She now, aged 55, has set up her own factory in Tibetan costumes making and the products are popular in local and surrounding areas.

She said that she can still feel the joy and sense of achievement in the same way as she did four decades ago, when sitting in front of the sewing machine and seeing the costume gradually take shape.

“傳統(tǒng)藏裝需要手工制作，女裝的工藝比較復(fù)雜，青年、中年、老年人的款式不一樣，料子很講究，還有裝飾也很重要，一個(gè)人做的話怎么都得十幾天……”說起藏裝，卓瑪總是神采飛揚(yáng)，不時(shí)發(fā)出的爽朗笑聲感染了小院里的每一個(gè)人。

“Traditional Tibetan costumes are all handmade. Crafts of women’s clothes are complicated and styles for the youths, middle-aged and senior people are different. So are materials and decorations on the clothes. Generally, a single costume takes one over ten days to accomplish,” Zhuoma was in a delighted voice, when it comes to Tibetan costumes.

奔子欄藏裝顏色鮮艷，搭配巧妙，在保留傳統(tǒng)藏族服裝式樣的同時(shí)，包頭、百褶裙等也極具本地區(qū)特色。藏裝在當(dāng)?shù)夭刈迦说纳钪兄两裼兄浅Ｖ匾淖饔?，幾乎每個(gè)人都至少要有一套，婚喪嫁娶、過年過節(jié)、跳鍋莊舞，都用得著。但在當(dāng)?shù)?，藏裝制作曾經(jīng)一度面臨失傳。“當(dāng)我的父親張生接到東竹林寺制作舞服的邀請(qǐng)時(shí)，他已經(jīng)是當(dāng)?shù)匚ㄒ灰粋€(gè)懂得傳統(tǒng)藏裝制作手藝的人了?！弊楷斦f。

The costumes in Benzilan are colorful and matched delicately. While keeping traditional styles, the hat and the pleated skirt are of local features. Almost everyone needs a costume for events like weddings, funerals, festivals and the Guozhuang dance.

Although the costume plays an important role in daily life of Tibetans, it was once on the verge of extinction. Zhuoma said that her father used to be asked to make dancing costumes by local monks. Back then, he was the only craftsman who can make traditional Tibetan costumes.

作為五姐妹里的大姐，卓瑪也從小就承載了家族的期待。15歲起，父親做衣服時(shí)，卓瑪就跟在一旁學(xué)。“快快，放著我來！”每當(dāng)擼起袖子準(zhǔn)備做家務(wù)活兒，妹妹們都會(huì)一把搶過去幫著做。

藏裝的魅力也讓卓瑪深深著迷，多年苦學(xué)，針線經(jīng)緯早已爛熟于心；不論寒暑，工作室里卓瑪?shù)纳碛皫缀鯊奈慈毕?/p>

As the eldest in her family, Zhuoma was highly expected to pass down the inheritance. She started learning the craft at the age of 15 from her father, while other sisters would do all the housework so that she could focus on sewing.

Attracted by the charm of Tibetan costumes, Zhuoma spent all her time in working place. Years of hard work made her a skillful costume maker.

卓瑪不僅完整地繼承了父輩的手藝，也一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)編織起了一家人的幸福生活。如今，廠里的縫紉機(jī)增加到了5臺(tái)，家里兒媳也開始跟著她學(xué)習(xí)，她們制作的產(chǎn)品更是廣受歡迎。

Having learnt all sewing skills from her father, Zhuoma helped her family better off because of the craft. Zhuoma now is the representative inheritor of Tibetan costumes sewing, a provincial intangible cultural heritage. There are 5 sewing machines in the factory and her daughter-in-law also began to learn the skill from her and the products they make are popular.

“眼看到9月份了，春節(jié)前的訂單都還沒做完，太多了只能排隊(duì)了?！弊楷斈樕下冻隽瞬缓靡馑嫉谋砬椤Ｋ嬖V我們，工廠現(xiàn)在能制作許多式樣的藏裝，適合正式場合和日常穿戴，價(jià)格從幾千元到數(shù)萬元不等，由于工藝精湛，他們的產(chǎn)品甚至被多家博物館收藏。

“It is September now but orders before the Chinese New Year are not done yet. Too many!” Zhuoma said in a shy smile. We can make costumes in different styles that fit formal occasions or daily use, and the prices range from thousands to tens of thousands RMB, she told us. Sewn in exquisite workmanship, many of their products are collected by museums.

“沒個(gè)領(lǐng)子，掛那么重的裝飾，脖子要疼的嘛?！弊楷斶€以人性的視角對(duì)傳統(tǒng)工藝進(jìn)行了改良。正式的藏裝加上了柔軟的領(lǐng)子，帶上飾品舒服一些；傳統(tǒng)藏裝穿起來不方便，系帶子的地方她就改成了松緊帶和魔術(shù)貼……

“With such heavy decorations, the wearer will feel neck pains without a collar,” Zhuoma pointed out. While sticking to traditional customs, she also made some improvements—it’ll be more comfortable after adding a soft collar in a formal costume; costumes will be better fastened if the tie is changed into a hook, loop or elastics…

去年，東竹林寺又找到卓瑪，想請(qǐng)她做新的舞服，而舊的舞服，正是父親當(dāng)年做的。從父親到卓瑪，30多年時(shí)光已經(jīng)很難用布料和針線去丈量， “我一生只做了這么一件事，就是做藏裝?！闭f到這里，卓瑪臉上洋溢著驕傲和幸福的笑容。

Last year, a local temple asked Zhuoma to make the dancing costumes, just like what had happened to her father. Decades of sewing is an enjoyable journey for Zhuoma, she said proudly and happily. Tibetan costumes making is a lifelong career for her.

云南日?qǐng)?bào)全媒體記者：張若谷 熊燕 儲(chǔ)東華 李文君

英文編譯：李恒強(qiáng)