“香，真香！”黑陶土鍋里燉著尼西土雞，加上當(dāng)天清晨從山里采摘的松茸，藏式廚房里滿是香氣。8月27日傍晚，云南省迪慶藏族自治州香格里拉縣城來的客人與外地朋友專程到尼西鄉(xiāng)品嘗美味。

“Wow, it smells great!” In a Tibetan kitchen full of aroma, visitors were admiring the Nixi native chicken stewed in a black pottery pot. The delicacy is coupled with matsutakes picked from the mountains in the morning.

On the evening of August 27, a tourist group from afar paid a special visit to Nishi Township, 30 kilometers away from the government seat of Diqing’s Shangri-La City in northwest Yunnan.

“你們猜，這道菜名氣最大的是什么？是鍋！尼西黑陶是國家級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)！”這番話讓外地朋友大吃一驚。于是，問題來了：一口被列為“非遺”的鍋是怎樣制作出來的？

“Can you imagine what matters most for the dish? It's the pot! The Nishi black pottery is a national intangible cultural heritage in China!” The guide’s word was quite beyond the visitors. “So how is a black pottery pot made?” asked a visitor.

在當(dāng)?shù)叵驅(qū)У膸ьI(lǐng)下，我們一起到尼西黑陶的產(chǎn)地湯堆村探秘。Guided by locals, the visitors explored the Tangdui village, birthplace of the Nishi black pottery.

“我爸爸今年剛被評(píng)為國家級(jí)非遺傳承人。不過，他今天不在家?！边@一天，26歲的拉茸肖巴（郭文亮）在香格里拉市黑土陶有限責(zé)任公司“小鬼當(dāng)家”。

“My dad was rated as a national inheritor for the heritage earlier this year. However, he’s out now.” That day, the 26-year-old Larong Xiaoba(Guo Wenliang in mandarin) received the guests at the Shangri-La Black Pottery Company, on behalf of his father.

“你會(huì)做尼西黑陶土鍋嗎？”當(dāng)我們面帶疑惑詢問這個(gè)文質(zhì)彬彬的小伙子時(shí)，他的回答很驕傲：“當(dāng)然會(huì)，我們是黑陶制作世家，我是家族的第8代傳人！”

“Can you show us how to make a black pottery pot?” A visitor dubiously asked the young fellow, who looked gentle and kind of shy.

“Of course. Mine is a family of the black-pottery tradition, and I’m the 8th-generation inheritor.” At the question, Larong Xiaoba got serious and answered with pride.

“尼西黑陶有38種傳統(tǒng)器型，土鍋是其中之一。一位制陶工匠，如果會(huì)做38種器型了，那也就出師了。”拉茸肖巴說，金沙江、瀾滄江流域的土陶器制作已有近3000年的歷史，古老的制陶手藝至今還在尼西傳承，造型別致、古樸大氣的各類陶器也是當(dāng)?shù)厝罕娋蛹疑畹谋匦杵贰＠仔ぐ蛷男≡诩依飳?duì)黑陶技藝耳濡目染，兩年前從云南民族大學(xué)藏語言文學(xué)專業(yè)畢業(yè)后回到村里，繼續(xù)在家里的公司專心學(xué)習(xí)、工作，38種器型他已經(jīng)全部學(xué)會(huì)了。

“The Nishi black pottery falls into 38 traditional varieties, and the pot is one of them,” said Larong Xiaoba. “If you can do all the 38 types of vessels, you’ll be seen as an independent craftsman in black pottery.”

Larong has been familiar with black pottery since his childhood. Two years ago, he returned to the village after graduating from the Yunnan Minzu University as a major in Tibetan Language and Literature. He followed his father’s steps and worked for the home business. Now, he can do all the 38 types.

坐在位于湯堆村口的自家工廠里，拉茸肖巴正在小心翼翼地捧著一只杯子，在手里的刻刀雕琢下，杯口一只調(diào)皮的水麒麟形象逐漸清晰，似乎已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好了在杯中攪起水花。

Sitting in the factory, Larong Xiaoba carefully picked up a clay cup and began carving with a knife. Gradually, the image of a naughty water unicorn became clear.　　拉茸肖巴邊展示他的手藝邊介紹黑陶工藝，他說得滔滔不絕。十幾種工具、六七道工藝、兩周時(shí)間，這是制作一只黑陶杯所需的精力與時(shí)間。而黑陶鍋的制作，也更為復(fù)雜。正是從小練習(xí)、技不離身，拉茸肖巴才有了今天這掙錢的“陶飯碗”。但拉茸肖巴選擇回歸大山，顯然不滿足于只像前輩一樣端一輩子“陶飯碗”，而是想從黑陶開始，開創(chuàng)一片新的天地。從他有些不羈的眼神里，我們看到了夢(mèng)想的光彩。

Then Larong showed the visitors his black-pottery wares one by one, coupled with detailed instructions on the craft.

To finish a black-pottery cup, ten plus tools and seven steps within two weeks are needed. As for making a black-pottery pot, it is necessary to have more tools and go through more steps.

Larong Xiaoba’s mastery in the clay art is largely attributed to his family influence. However, the university graduate will not limit himself to the traditional black-pottery field of his forefathers. Based on the craft, he wants to try something new.

拉茸肖巴說，他想先開一家與眾不同的民宿，再和當(dāng)?shù)厝艘黄?，把湯堆建設(shè)成一個(gè)黑陶特色旅游小鎮(zhèn)。一身泥的小伙子談起這個(gè)話題，神采奕奕。

Larong said that he plans to open a distinctive rural guesthouse and then join hands with locals to build the village into a tourist town featuring the black-pottery art. At the topic, the young man in muddy clothes got excited and vigorous.

他說，隨著香格里格全域旅游不斷發(fā)展，地處交通要道沿線、坐擁著名非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)和美食的尼西已經(jīng)感受到了旅游帶來的熱度。這個(gè)夏天，拉茸肖巴的家里每天都要迎來數(shù)十位來自全國甚至世界各地的游客，他們?cè)谶@里參觀、體驗(yàn)，還可以自己動(dòng)手制作一個(gè)“專屬”的黑陶器具，一般情況停留一兩個(gè)小時(shí)，最多半天時(shí)間。游客走后，工人師傅會(huì)繼續(xù)這項(xiàng)未完成的工作，待黑陶器具燒制好，拉茸肖巴他們會(huì)把成品寄給已經(jīng)回家的游客，最遠(yuǎn)甚至寄到過臺(tái)灣地區(qū)。

With growth of the holistic tourism in Shangri-La, the Nixi township also benefited from tourism. The town lies near the thoroughfare and is famous for local heritages and delicacies.

This summer, Larong’s home-bred business saw dozens of tourists from home and abroad every day. They came to visit and experience the craft, and some even kneaded their own original clay wares. They generally stay for hours, or half a day at most.

Seeing off the visitors, the workers would continue the steps left, and the finished black-pottery products will be sent to the tourists later. Some of Larong’s wares have reached the Taiwan region.

雖然這項(xiàng)體驗(yàn)活動(dòng)廣受好評(píng)，但是拉茸肖巴覺得這可遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)不夠。在他眼里，自己的家鄉(xiāng)山清水秀，春有桃花、夏有松茸、民俗獨(dú)特，游客待一會(huì)兒就走，體驗(yàn)太少了。他想和村里人一起，以公司加農(nóng)戶的方式，把當(dāng)?shù)氐母鞣N資源整合起來，讓客人在這里待上一天、幾天。

Such service has been widely praised, but Larong Xiaoba wants to do better. In his eyes, his hometown is beautiful, with peach blossoms in spring and matsutakes in summer. Folk customs are unique.

“Visitors’ staying here is too short to get a full picture of the lovely place,” said Larong. He wants to team up with local villagers and open a guesthouse, so that the visitors can stay here for a day or longer.

在他的夢(mèng)想里，未來的湯堆要成為一個(gè)有意境、有品質(zhì)、很漂亮、體驗(yàn)好的旅游小鎮(zhèn)——桃紅柳綠、鳥語花香，人們?yōu)槌龈G的黑陶歡呼，也能坐下來，喝上一碗酥油茶，吃上一鍋尼西雞……

In his vision, the future Tangdui village should be a tourist town of arts, quality, and pleasant stays, and a beautiful place with peach blossoms, lush woods, singing birds and lovely flowers.

Here folks and tourists would cheer together for the black-pottery wares coming out of the kiln, and sit together for a drink of the butter tea or a taste of the native chicken...

是的，在今天的尼西鄉(xiāng)，黑陶是一種生活方式，僅湯堆村170余戶村民中就有140多戶從事黑陶制作；黑陶也是一項(xiàng)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)，這門有3000年歷史的技藝依然充滿了活力。而未來，黑陶更將成為許多像拉茸肖巴這樣的尼西年輕人的青春之歌。

Now black pottery is a lifestyle in Nixi Township. Of the 170 plus households of villagers in the Tangdui village, over 140 are engaged in black-pottery making. The 3,000-year cultural heritage has come back to life.

In the future, black pottery is expected to be inherited by more Nixi youngsters like Larong Xiaoba.

云報(bào)全媒體記者 張若谷 熊燕 儲(chǔ)東華 李文君